Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Being Việt Kiều

Today was my last full day in Saigon, so I told my mom that I wanted to explore the city on my own. I hadn’t had a chance to check out Ho Chi Minh City by foot like I did in Hue yet, so I really wanted to take this opportunity to do so. My mom was cool with this, and ended up going to Di Minh’s house for the day. My cousins were very concerned about me being out and about on my own for fear that the locals would take advantage of my việt kiều ways. I assured them that I would be fine, and that the only thing they should be concerned about is me wilting away under the scorching Saigon sun.

I took a stroll over to Ben Thanh Market to buy some souvenirs for my family and friends. I had about $700,000 in my wallet and I wanted to use as much of it up as possible. I wanted to bring back something uniquely Vietnam, so I stopped at a hat kiosk in hopes of finding nón lá, the traditional cone shaped Vietnamese hat. As I browsed the selection, I heard the two female vendors tell each other to try to make a sell, but to be firm with the price. I also heard them snicker about me, wondering where I was from and how much to spend. I could have let these two ramble on, but instead I smiled and interrupted with a simple, "Easy there, I understand everything you're saying." With that admission, the two female venders' expressions suddenly changed and smiles lit up their faces. "You speak so well for a việt kiều, we're so surprised!" With that, I turned on the Quang Khoi charm and engaged in small talk. I spent the next 20 minutes picking out hats and telling tales of life in America. Of course, they inquired about my love life, and like with everyone else, I declared that I was a bachelor. The younger of the two then turned up the flirting a few notches. That dê factor reared its horny head once again! When it was time to pay, the older vendor gave me all my merchandise for a fraction of their asking price, and I didn't have to do any bargaining.

After purchasing all my hats, I wandered about Ben Thanh Market and came across a DVD/CD kiosk. I stood at the counter for about three five minutes flipping through a box of bootleg DVDs waiting for someone to approach me so I could start the bargaining, but I received absolutely no customer service. I looked up and asked the vendor in Vietnamese what the cost was per disc, and she gave me a look of sheer surprise. She responded that she thought I just another việt kiều and that she wasn't really in the mood for a broken English/broken Vietnamese haggling session. We engaged in a little bit of small talk, and after I picked out my stack, she gave me a good price. After that transaction, I realized that I finished all my shopping and decided to head back to my hotel.

I've been told by many Vietnamese people in the states that being a việt kiều in Vietnam can be a negative thing. The stigma is that Vietnamese people who have left their home country for the US return with the attitude that they are better. Many return to Vietnam to flaunt their wealth, an act which is not received well by the natives. In addition, it is frowned upon when a việt kiều cannot speak Vietnamese. I said it once, and I'll say it again, my mom did an excellent job in forcing me to speak Vietnamese at home when I was a kid. I never really fully realized it until this trip, but my firm grasp of my native tongue truly defines who I am. This certainly separates me from other việt kiều, something that makes me so damn proud. Below are some pics from my day at Ben Thanh Market.

2 comments:

DianeN said...

Anh Dai's treat to take you to eat Goat once again worked! Sounds like the younger of the two lady vendor was smitten by you!

Love these pictures! I'm not sure if I would be brave enough to speak Vietnamese even though I understand and can speak. I would be too afraid of saying the wrong thing!

Tony Nguyen said...

Never be afraid to speak. If you make an error, people will correct you. It's better to try and make a mistake than to not try at all. People will respect you for it.